Happy Halloween!

Greetings from Ecuador!
We are currently writing from Quito, Ecuador´s mountain rimmed capital. Today we had fun walking the city and busing to mountain top theme park/gondala ride view point. The city sprawls wide with an unbroken skyscraper skyline. We will explore the splendors of colonial architecture tomorrow.

El desierto de Tatacoca was so unlike anything we have seen yet. After spending a night in a nearby villa, we walked an hour in the midday sun through the ¨red desert¨ and were picked up by our friend Hairo. Hairo lives in the middle of the ¨grey desert¨. His property includes a natural pool, hammocks, and handmade, bamboo/mud facilities, including an outdoor kitchen and cabins with spectacular desert views. We enjoyed riding around by motorcycle and taking day and night hikes. Minus the bugs. We learned about cactus fruits and sasafrass trees. At night we were greeted by a nearly full moon which cast a grey light upon the desert floor. Unfortunately we did not see many stars in the cloudy sky, but the desert had just as many dazzling configurations.
After 3 days we were on our way, however we could not leave without being gifted the cutest puppy in Colombia. During our stay we enjoyed their constant company and entertainment. We knew we wanted Gordito - the hungriest of the bunch- when he puked all over Courtney on our first day.






Gordito in hand, we motorcycled outta the desert and bused through Neiva to San Agustin. Arriving late by pickup truck, which amazingly transported 18 of us for an hour, we found a happy family hostel in el centro. The next day we left Gordito with the 10 year daughter and set out for the infamous archeological park. The park was full of huge rocks which were carved into defensive faces and protective stances of anthromorphic figures. Most of these statues dated back 4,000 to 6,000 years! There were few informative signs around, and we refused to go with a guide after meeting the craziest of the bunch. However we still enjoyed our stroll and felt the ancient energy. It was also good practice decoding the spanish signs.







On Monday, October 25th we arrived in Popayan. The central district contains only white buildings which were a lovely colonial style and gave surreal impressions. We spent an extra day just strolling the streets, and getting our new dog vaccinated. On our first visit, we arrived by bike. Considering its dangerous to cross the streets here, this was a bit of a frightening experience. The second visit we walked through rain. With our doggy passport, we made our way to the boarder city of Pasto. The bus ride was included bonito views of deep canyons and steep green slopes. The highlight of Pasto was realizing Colombian pastries are bad after sharing a bagel-like donut.






Goodbye Colombia, Hello Ecuador.
In the morning we bused to Ecuador with a very relaxed puppy. We landed in Otavalo. Otavalo is most famous for its extensive artisan market manned by the large indigenous population. The Otavaleno women dress all the same in white floral blouses, long blue skirts, suede strap slides, strings of gold beads (symbolizing wealth), and a long braid down their backs. First off in the morning we went to the animal market with a very excited backpack-bound dog. We saw pigs, goats, cows, upside down chickens, guinea pigs for eating, kittens and pups for adopting. We told at least half the people there that our dog was Colombian, and was not for grabs. The artisan market covered a dozen blocks and was overwhelmingly full of crafts. We bargained for Ecuadorian pants and bracelets.
That afternoon we left with overstimulated eyes for Quito.

Capitales

Bogota was our most recent unplanned stop that was well worth the visit. We arrived at the countries capital last Sunday and were immediately dropped into the rich cultural and historical happenings of the city. We stayed in La Candelaria barrio for 3 days and 3 nights. We walked the streets, ate hawaian arepas, saw a concert for dia de los razas in plaza bolivar (the countries largest square). The Museo del Oro (Gold museum) was a one of a kind treat where we were able to learn even more indian histories and see their gold masterpieces. Colombian indians = El Dorado. We visited the Botanical Gardens where we saw all the lovely fauna and herbs of Colombia.
We ditched Bogotas party scene and instead spent our weekend in the countryside of Solento, Colombias coffee capital. Perhaps we should have switched this order. In Solento we were able to stay in the penthouse of a coffee farm and work there one day. We were hoping for more work, but there is none on the weekends, and today is a town-wide day off. On Friday we enjoyed picking the fruits of the coffee trees, which will be peeled down 4 layers, soaked in water, roasted and grinded before they become the coffee we all know and love to drink. Perks of the farm: free fruit to pick and all-you-can-drink-rich-coffee.
The rolling green hills and adorably painted houses that surround us have made Solento a good stop along our way. Yesterday we hiked in the National Forest Valley de Cocora and saw the tallest palm in the world! and we made it out with all the shoes we went in with.
Tonight we leave for the desert of Tatacoa to explore new landscapes!
Ciao de Colombia,
Emilia y Chia

Taganga and the Lost City trek

In the last week we have trekked up and down mountains and beaches.
Taganga is a quaint fisherman village with a lot of tourists just down a windy road from Santa Marta. We were fortunate to find the best hostel in the whole city (or so we think) on our first go. El Oso Persozo (the sloth) is a treehouse like hostel in the middle of the city where we can swing from rooftop hammocks and relax in the breezy cafe - includes 360 panoramic views of rolling green hills and caribbean sea.
However, we have seen far better in the last week. Last friday we embarked on a 5 day 4 night trek through Tayrona National Park to the very lost city of the Tayrona indians. Our first day included a (10 person full) bumpy jeep ride up a mountain to Pueblito where we began our hike. Through the jungle we went passing banana trees, parrots and rivers. The hike is steep both up and down but we were well taken care of with fresh fruits like mandarins, pineapple, bananas, sugar cane, and cocoa sweetness. After approximately 4 hours of hiking we stopped at the home of our guide (where he has lived all his life) and were feed and put to bed in hammocks. We go to bed early and rise with the dawning sun to eat another huge plate of food, sip on coffee and juice. We pass semi-domestic cows, chickens and roosters on steep pastures as well as indian villages made up of thatched palm huts. Coffee and cocaine fields abounded. We see the biggest cockroaches, butterflies, beetles, toads and spiders bigger than our hands! Every day it pours, and our sweat soaked clothes smell a little better from this rain relief. The sun is hot and the humidity is strong the whole way through, something us washingtonians dispise, but we instead are distracted by the wonders of the world which surround us. Every minute, day and night, hums with the jungle electricity of bugs, waterfalls, wind in the trees above, strong rain, load birds and randomly scattered pigs. Every step feels fulfilling, and our guide points out the smallest beautys along the way, he knows everything about the flora, fauna, people, and living off the land. We relied on his knowledge every day, although he often made sarcastic jokes that hopefully we have eventually been able to decifer from the truths.
On the third day we rise at 5 and find Courtney´s only shoes scalded by the warm oven they were placed next to to dry the night before. Our guide has nothing to offer but aquasocks. After this upset, with grace, we scale a waterfall, and walk 1500 stairs to find overgrown stone circles which were once foundations of prehistoric homes. When we reach the center of the old civilization we are literally blown away by a ginormous Colombian military helicopter. After landing in most sacred spot of the ruins, hundreds of supply boxes are unloaded to feed and accomidate the armed military men stationed on site. It seemed a bit sacreligious to us, but we were curiously perplexed by the mass quantity of supply that only comes once a month. A decade ago guerillas used to feed off tourists that came through the trail, so the military has been set up as permanent protection, and it was affective.
We spent time soaking up the spiritual energy that eminated from the old city and learned lessons from one of the two indigenous elders that still lives there. On our decent back we felt influenced and inspired, making our journey even more worth the while. We return to pueblito on Tuesday completely bug bitten, sore feet/legs, and stinking from a lack of showering in the last week. Fortunately there were cold rivers for us to swim in to somewhat relieve our noses from the worst body odor either of us has ever experienced. That said, we were very excited to return to Taganga and reset ourselves, launder our clothes and finally bathe.
We are now scheduling our next adventure to the coffee region of central Colombia where we plan to volunteer on farms and see where Starbucks gets its gold.
We are happy and we are safely enjoying this paradise we have landed in.
Mucho amor,
Emilia y Chia

¡Bienvenidos Colombia!

On september 20th we met in Houston and were ready to live it up down south along Colombias coast. We didnt know what to expect or exactly were to go, but being here for 5 days has taught us that exact plans are not important, nor is time. We flew into Barranquilla and found it to be a very chaotic and bustling place...with no street signs. when we were dropped off by taxi we thought we could navigate and find an appropriate hotel, but we soon realized (by everyones incredulous looks) that we were the only tourists in the whole city. the streets are full of make shift shacks where vendors sell everything from shoes to cellphone chargers. Special to Barranquilla are the monsoon rains that come everyday around noon. During these rain storms the streets (with no sewer system) fill with water and flow like rivers, taking street liter and cars along with it. everyone stops where they are on the streets and waits for clear skies, if you want to carry on with your day, men set up wooden cartons and planks which you can cross for a small price. we were caught off guard -and soaked- both days there. On the day we planned to leave we were again inhibited by the rain, we planned to go to Santa Marta but ended up talking with other rain-waiters in the hotel and followed our new friend Darwin to Cartagena.
Cartagena is an old beautiful colonial city. A common theme so far: the people are friendly and lively, they speak quickly, streets are full of activity, loud music pours out of open doors and windows, and if you don´t understand the menu... ask for clarification or don´t order it. So far we have we have walked along the moira wall that encircals the historical center of the city, spent time at the beach, swam in the Caribean, danced in clubs, celebrated Festival November (in september!), and made many new friends. We are getting fewer looks from locals here because Cartagena is a tourist city for travellers and colombians alike. We have been well guided through the city during our stay, but yesterday felt sick of eating just chicken and rice and decided to branch out at a new restaurant. we ordered a stiff carne asada and sopa de cow-intestines. completely by accident, of course. actually we couldnt even make a dent in the bowl. we have eaten lots of good things too, like fresh crab and shrimp, fresh squeezed juice, soups, lots of meats, coconut sweets and rum, aguila beer and agaurdiente.
We have easily adapted to the calm and carefree life that the beach ensues in everyone here. men and women walk around in flip flops 24/7 and wear small clothing, or just pull their shirts up when the heat is too much to handle. Early tomorrow we are leaving this tropical paradise for a new sunspot... yes we are getting a lot of sun. When we arrive in Santa Marta - if nothing stops us before then- we plan to visit the city and Taganga, a nearby fishing/beach village and see the lost city of the Tayrona people in the national park there! Sun, forests and new sights are on our frontier. Behind us we leave the what we already now of this countries beautiful cities, sights and people. All systems (and senses) go!
Besos y abrazos,
Emilia y Chia